I won’t name names but certain labels that used to be dope have become stale — shiny screenprints and corny wordplay on t-shirts is so 2006, but the “streetwear” scene remains overrun with gaudy logos and tacky graphics. Enough with printing Disney inspired hoodlums carrying bats and smoking joints or whatever on shirts! These loud designs are not fly and have a horribly short lifespan — if the graphic isn’t faded after the first wash your friends will totally call you out for wearing the same wacky shirt more than twice.

But change is coming: longtime streetwear powerhouse, Freshjive has decided to drop all forms of logos and branding from their clothes beginning in summer 2010. I think it’s a grand idea.

if the graphic isn’t faded after the first wash your friends will totally call you out for wearing the same wacky shirt more than twiceWhile dropping all logos and images isn’t totally necessary, I think its a step in the right direction. Hopefully some form of this idea will catch on and other labels will follow suit and figure out more ways to differentiate themselves besides wild graphics.

I’m not arguing that there should be no more logos or funny graphics but there should be a good balance. I just want to inspire some deeper thinking when it comes to graphics, functionality, fit, and fabrics. I won’t name the labels that need to “grow up,” but joining Freshjive at the front of the subtle streetwear basics pack are Wood Wood, Oak, Peg Leg, Cheap Monday, Neighborhood and CurrentElliot.

Hellz Bellz influenced by the YSL logo

His greatest influence of the moment for the streetwear industry takes roots back to his first collection shown under the House of Saint Laurent in January 1962. The collection included tunics and sportswear translating into couture, that also showcased his ability to deconstruct, mingle with colors, as well as first presenting the YSL logo. Cassandre designed the infamous YSL logo, whose influential art in graphic design and typeface successfully made the initial nickname for the brand and helped built it as a recognizable and classic logo in fashion.

One of the most popular trends in streetwear design today is inspired by the YSL logo. The growing trend may exist to pay respects and express the legacy that Yves Saint-Laurent has planted onto the fashion industry. It may also be because Yves Saint-Laurent wasn’t disconnected from street fashion, as his inspiration was usually fueled from the streets; and knowingly or unknowingly, streetwear brands may relate to his designs better. It may also be part of a present movement for streetwear, as they continue to grow to include their version of a ready-to-wear collection, the cut-and-sew line. The YSL logo has taken streetwear by a storm, with what seems like as if each major streetwear brand has harvested their brand’s version of the YSL logo. It has almost become a signature design that a brand has chosen to continue under their wings.

Crooks and Castles influenced by the Chanel logo

The YSL brand logo isn’t the only one that’s been influenced into streetwear designs. Chanel, the Parisian fashion house, has also heavily impacted streetwear brands to implement their infamous Chanel logo or the Chanel No. 5 graphic design onto shirts as well. The continuous design, production, and growing popularity of these type of designs make you question whether streetwear is really trying to push itself onto the next level in fashion or if the consumers who buy these shirts are stating a message of their own. Are the buyers translating that the specific streetwear associated with the altered high-fashion logo design is their equivalence to that high fashion house? Are they stating that streetwear shouldn’t be looked down upon from the rest of the fashion industry? Or is it simply viewed as a mock-up, having these designs as the closest branding to these fashion houses of which people can afford without being scorned for buying a knock-off?

Streetwear brands such as Black Scale, Hellz Bellz, Married to the Mob, Crooks & Castles, Two in the Shirt, and Joyrich are only some of brands that have been influenced by these fashion house logos.

S [SoJones.com]: How and when did Paper Root clothing start? Who’s the mastermind behind the clothing line?

GD [Gregory Dettra]: Paper Root started a little over two years ago in North East Florida. It is basically just me, but I have some silent contributors that assist with alot of the processes and curating. I had come into possession of a 30-year old screen printing press and started to learn that whole process. It wasn’t long before I got comfortable with it all and wanted to take it to another level. I was obsessed with t-shirt culture and streetwear at this point, but wasn’t terribly impressed by a good bit of what was out there. I’m not a fan of t-shirts with quippy sayings or sarcastic shit or logo takes or straight up pop-culture exploitation tees. I wanted to do something that was more focused on the artistry of t-shirts and leave the focus off of humor and logo-centrism. Not being a great artist myself, I started talking with some artists that I knew about bringing some of my ideas to life. After the designs were done, I starting hand screen-printing all the shirts and selling them everywhere I could: online, markets, shows, festivals, etc. Eventually, we started to pick up steam and got in contact with some online arenas and some shops around the country and overseas, which has afforded us the ability to keep coming up with new designs and new tees pretty regularly. That’s pretty much where we are today, moving forward and continuing to grow.

S: What’s with the name ‘Paper Root’?

GD: The name was meant to be a sort of question mark. It’s two very common words, but they both have literally thousands of interpretations in our society depending who is saying them and how they are being used. We base alot of our concepts off of our own psychological theories, so the name is a conglomeration of that. The name could mean something different to every person, so we leave it at that. It definitely has a specific meaning to me, but I’m gonna hold that captive.

S: Is there any brand philosophy behind Paper Root?

GD: The brand philosophy is art and catharsis. I’ve come across too many t-shirt designers that have to constantly churn out stuff for clients that is just corporate “what will sell” mentality. We prefer the perspective that is similar to fine art in that it is meant to express what you are feeling. I don’t want to get too heady about it, but our designs are basically a way for us to exorcise the demons that we are dealing with at the moment. And not really demons in a bad way, but more in the way that when you become obsessed or addicted to something, you find that it starts to control or influence your actions. Every one of our design concepts came about from coming to the realization that there was something in our lives that may be taking a little too much control. One example would be the “Donut Rampage” tee. That concept came about from my obsession with my favorite sweet treat, donuts. I found myself getting distracted by the thoughts of when I could run out and grab a couple, so I figured it was time to put that grapple out in print. Hence the t-shirt where the donut has revolted against its creators and is instead devouring us. You can actually spot some sweet treats in a few of our designs, so that should tell you that it is something that we deal with on a regular basis, but it is usually not in the forefront, more of a side-note most of the time. Another is the “Cool as F*#k” tee. Obviously based on fixie culture, one of our designers started to get a little too into his fixed gear bike, so we decided to shine a revealing light on the culture that is starting to over-take mainstream society as the new hipster revolution (i.e. custom fixed gear bikes courtesy of Urban Outfitters, hence “you think you’re “Cool as F*#k”).
Now, this does not mean this is the only focus of our tees, because in the end we still want to make shirts that look hot as shit. But overall, we want them to come with some meaning. Our hope is that someone sees one of our tees and thinks “man, that is a sick shirt”, while they subconsciously connect with the elemental meaning of the shirt.
Not that we are always trying to be this deep, we are also slowly getting into the realm of some branding efforts and some cut-n-sew pieces, but we’re always going to have the graphic tees to express us.

S: What are your greatest influences and inspirations?

GD: Our greatest inspirations are society around us. We all have clothing brands we admire, but not to the point where you could really see similarities in execution. The less we see of everything else, the more original we can be.

S: What differs Paper Root clothing than any other clothing out there in the market?

GD: Pretty much a lot of the things I’ve mentioned above. I don’t expect people to instantly fall in love with our style, because our line is pretty all over the place. And that is something that a lot of people in the industry frown upon. We’ve been told time and time again that a brand should have a certain aesthetic. It should make them recognizeable and should be something that people can come to expect from you time after time. I disagree with that. I believe in variety and keeping people guessing. So that’s what sets us apart is the meanings behind the shirts and the fact that you probably will never be able to guess what we’re going to put out next.

S:  Have you endorsed celebrities? If you haven’t, do you plan to? Which famous face do you see fit to live the Paper Root lifestyle?

GD: We have not endorsed any celebrities, and we don’t really have any intentional plans to. I definitely see the value of having celebrities rep your brand, but I don’t believe it is something that you should force on someone or contract someone into. If a celebrity gets some Paper Root gear and is into it, that’s amazing. But if there is some sort of deal or contract involved, then that devalues the genuine-ness of the brand.
As for a famous face, we have alot of respect for musicians, since they’re essentially doing the same thing that we are. As in wearing their hearts on their sleeve and putting their emotions and demons out to the world for us to judge. I personally have a lot of respect for Mos Def, Kanye West, The Roots, Outkast, Jay-Z, Lil Wayne. Plus they all have great fashion sense, so they’d be ideal representatives to live the Paper Root lifestyle.

S:  What are your current varieties in the line? Any plans to expand the line in the future?

GD: Our current varieties are mostly graphic tees, but we do have alot of custom stuff in the works for the next few seasons. Some custom hoodies, knits, hats, and accessories are all in the development stage. We do have alot of plans to extend the line in the future. While we got our foot in the door with the t-shirts, we also see the value of putting that big graphic tee in the closet and opting for some solid combinations or getting dressed up for the night out. So be on the look-out for some custom solid outfit pieces fit for any wardrobe and some t-shirts that aren’t covered in prints, but have some more classic images or just good color combinations.

S:  Which Paper Root items do you recommend for SoJones readers for this season?

GD: From this latest drop, my favorite pieces are the “cool as F*#k’ tee and the “NWJ” tee. But a staple favorite of mine is the “Run Buddha” tee, it takes on some of my favorite struggles in the freshest way possible.

You heard it straight from the creator, so here are the recommended Paper Root Tees that are also huge hits with SoJones editors.  You can get them from Karmaloop!

Paper Root Cool as F*#k Tee, $30

Paper Root NWJazz Tee, $30

Paper Root Run Buddha Run Tee, $30

Courtesy of:
http://www.nytimes.com/

The Italian has made his own modifications to the ‘Darline’ and ‘Morris’ styles produced by the company, giving them a vintage worn look through tears and bleach washing. The range will be named ‘GAS4DOVIZIOSO’ and feature the rider’s logo and signature.

GAS will present the line this month as part of the ‘Denim Mania’ campaign, with Dovizioso himself meeting fans at the GAS store. The purchase of a pair of the jeans will give the buyer entry to a MotoGP competition, with the grand prizes a pass for the Barcelona round of the World Championship, a Honda SH125 scooter and vouchers for GAS stores.
The jeans will be sold in all Gas flagship stores in Italy and in select multibrand boutiques.

Source article:
http://www.sportswearnet.com/

On top of their current portfolio the group is going to opena Streetwear store called Designer Stockroom in the next few months. The shop is going to be similar to Superdry and Diesel and it will be based in the Meadows shopping centre in Chelmsford.

A second concept store in Chelmsford will follow later this year.

Zagger Womenswear will also relaunch this year with added categories such as furniture and antique jewellery, and will trade from a larger space.

Zagger Fashion Group owner Chris Geer said: “Opportunities present themselves for businesses to expand in this market. Independents need to remain strong and keep moving. People want to spend their money locally, and this is a time when independents can shine.”

You can find the source article here:
http://www.drapersonline.com

Some of their brands: Zoo York, Eleven Clothing, Dirty Smart, Rogue Status, Mighty Healthy, and Nomis.

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